I have long had a love for punk style fashion, and this is in part down to my favorite fashion designer Viviene Westwood, who sadly passed away at the end of 2022.
It was in fact her passing which inspired me to write this article about punk style, from its inception right through to the current ‘styles’ of punk fashion!
I hope you enjoy reading this as much as I enjoyed writing it.
History Of Punk Style
Punk style or punk fashion might appear like a disorganized mishmash of accessories and articles of clothing but this fashion style is more of a statement or a lifestyle than anything else. The punk style, at its core, centers around a rebellious spirit. Breaking away from the norms and forging your own path. Because of this attitude, we can’t put a pin on the exact definition of a punk style; you will know it when you see it.
The Precursor To Punk Fashion
Before we could put a proper label on the style, the first rebels that paved the way were the ‘Teddy boys.’ Exploding into the fashion scene back in the late 40s, teddy boy fashion took classy traditional clothes and tweaked the design into something more modern and fresh.
Teddy boy fashion usually featured draped Edwardian clothes such as coats and added several tiny twists like collars, pockets, and cuff trimmings. Each on its own has subtle differences, but together these additions accentuate a gruffer look. Trousers were also customized to have a narrower fit which is in stark contrast to the loose coat.
Alas, this is also where the stigma against punk style originated, as the media quickly labeled the Teddy boy style as one typically associated with delinquents.
British Punk Explosion Of The 70s
The term “punk” can trace its roots in the 70s UK, with bands like The Clash, Siouxsie Sioux, and the Sex Pistols pushing the style into the mainstream with their equally diverse, unique, and chaotic music. Fashion designer Vivienne Westwood created some of the most iconic punk fashion styles alongside the Sex Pistols, for which she created various designs back in the 70s.
The Sex Pistols were definitely at the forefront of the punk movement during this time as their style dominated the London fashion scene during this wild decade, which reflected the social and political turmoil of the era.
Punk style popularized in the UK, specifically by the Sex Pistols, is about finding beauty in chaos. You will also find a considerable abundance of safety pins used in 70s British punk, which adds boldness to the overall style, further accentuating the slightly Frankenstein aesthetic.
The band Siouxsie Sioux also branched out into a different subcategory of punk style, which focused on this almost otherworldly gothic look. This particular style of punk has a different vibe from the colorful angst-ridden flavor of the Sex Pistols and is a more brooding and darker version.
Another icon of the punk movement are The Ramones who also showcased their specific style in the hotpot that is the punk fashion scene. Gone are the tattered loud mishmash of clothes and accessories, and in their place is a sharper, more muted use of ripped jeans, leather jackets, and sneakers.
If ever there was a symbol of teenage angst and rebellion, it would be the iconic Ramones logo, which is still quite a popular shirt design today. The Ramones’s style of punk takes a minimalist approach which is a stark contrast to their predecessors.
Street Punk Style – Rebellion And Creativity
Around the 80s and 90s, punk style again transformed into what it is mainly known for nowadays. The large Mohawk, leather studded accessories, and Dr. Marten footwear became the signature look. This era is what we call the ‘post-punk’ style, which is probably best described as a modern fictional pirate look.
Punk fashion will always center around freedom and rebellion. It is a style that attracts free-spirited individuals who are considered to ‘have a problem with authority’. I myself actually love the punk style, though it borders on the more rock chic periphery of punk fashion.
Punk Fashion Today
In general, we can say that punk style is an amalgamation of various subcultures rolled into one chaotic yet beautiful mess. Punk draws inspiration and has inspired other styles, such as grunge and indie rock.
If there is one particular piece of clothing that can be linked to punk style, it would be plaid pants and a skirt, which is almost a requirement in the attire – you’ll have noticed that Vivienne Westwood used a lot of plaid fabrics in her collections over the years.
Of course, the central theme of punk fashion should always hold a precedent, and that is the anti-consumerist ideology. As such, no particular brand can be genuinely associated with the punk lifestyle. This is not quite the case with punk fashion, though, as there are several brands that cater to this fashion. So, when it comes to punk fashion, the core ideals will always focus on expressionism, anti-authority, and anti-consumerism.
With that in mind, purchasing clothes from thrift stores, wearing hand-me-downs, and customizing pre-owned garments is part of what punk style is all about.
The Different Subcultures Of Punk Fashion
As you would have probably already surmised with our brief look at the chaotic history of punk culture, it has branched into various categories that showcase vastly different looks. Below are the most popular sub-genres that came from the ideals of punk.
Cyberpunk
The cyberpunk style is pretty wild. It features neon colors and, in some cases, a lot of glossy form-fitting latex. The main theme of cyberpunk fashion revolves around a high-tech, low-cost look. Also called ‘tech wear,’ cyberpunk style was popularized by films such as Blade Runner, The Matrix, Johnny Mnemonic, and Ghost in the Shell.
Long trench coats, boots, cargo pants, buckles, straps, and other utility-focused accessories. Cyberpunk fashion can also be divided into tech wear and dark wear. Tech wear is a more maximalist look, while dark wear focuses on muted and monochrome colors and is the minimalist counterpart.
Think of cyberpunk fashion as a style that complements the more pessimistic view of the future – Industrialized, soaking in neon colors, and grounded.
Steampunk
Think Victorian-era clothing with a heavy focus on the industrial revolution, and you get the steampunk style. As you can imagine, steampunk fashion is all about extravagance and luxury and can be expensive to maintain.
Victorian-style clothing such as long dresses, lace, waistcoats, and top hats are the most commonly found in this sub-genre of fashion. Accessories are also among the most crucial elements in steampunk, with brass jewelry, pocket watches, and even goggles being a regular fixture.
Due to the rather lavish requirements of steampunk fashion, it is mainly seen during special occasions and events such as cosplay conventions. However, a casual version of steampunk is still possible.
Skatepunk
Closely related to the skate culture that exploded into the scene in the late 90s and early 2000s, skatepunk was popularized into pop culture mainstream fandom by singers like Avril Lavigne. However, if you are to dig deeper into this culture, you will find the godfathers of skatepunk to be bands such as Rancid and Pennywise.
Tracing its roots to South California, skatepunk fashion is all about low-cost attire. The most common clothes connected to this punk subculture include baggy trousers, jeans, shorts, flat-bottomed shoes and sneakers, tall socks, and dad caps.
In terms of a signature design, striped shirts and socks tend to be the most connecting thread in skate punk fashion. Striped arm warmers also tend to be a standard fixture too.
Goth Punk
Goth punk emerged during the post-punk era and was popularized by bands such as Siouxie Sioux and The Cure. Goth punk fashion focuses on dark and brooding aesthetics. As such, expect a lot of black with this style.
From black dyed hair, dark lipstick, dark eyeliners, and especially all-black clothing. Picking the clothes will be similar to how punk attire is achieved, by going to thrift stores and modifying clothes with handmade jewelry and patches. Goth punk is one of the most fashion-oriented subgroups of the punk style, and you can see this subgenre of fashion in action in places like Camden in London in the UK.
Punk Lolita
One of the more niche members of the punk style, the punk Lolita originated in Japan and can be noted down as a combination of punk, steampunk, and goth punk. Punk Lolita also focuses more on aesthetics than the other subcategories of punk.
Punk Lolita can also be described as cute with bell-shaped knee-length skirts (smaller variations of Victorian-style dresses). The fabric is also a core factor in punk Lolita fashion, using fishnets and deconstructed textiles.
Additional accessories and flourishes can also be combined with the chosen fabrics, such as chains and studs. As you can expect, punk Lolita fashion is quite complex and is more akin to forming a puzzle, as there are several elements that you need to combine to finish the look.
One of the originators of the punk Lolita style is the guitarist of the Japanese rock band Malice Mizer, Mana. Another Japanese rock singer, Nana Kitade, helped further popularize the punk Lolita fashion, which she has continuously evolved throughout her career.
Famous Punk Fashion Designers
The punk style didn’t just appear overnight, just as Rome wasn’t built in a day. While the core ideology of punk remained the same, the style went through several iterations and today has over a dozen other subgenres with distinct looks.
However, several punk fashion designers perfectly nailed the spirit of the lifestyle, thus giving it a specific look that is entirely its own. Below are the fashion designers that revolutionized punk fashion throughout the years.
Vivienne Westwood
If we were to point at one particular designer who invented the punk fashion scene, it would be the late Vivienne Westwood. Her partnership with one of the pioneers of punk music, The Sex Pistols, defined a generation in the UK. A true punk fashion icon, Vivienne Westwood’s designs stood the test of time and are still as relevant today as they were in the 70s and 80s.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier is another punk fashion icon introducing a different shade to the style. Gaultier’s version of punk fashion has a darker and edgier vibe to it with the use of studded leather with fringe and lace corsets. Gaultier’s designs take the unique aspects of punk and goth to create a visually arresting, captivating, and domineering style.
Judy Blame
Besides Vivienne Westwood, only a handful of designers understand the chaotic soul of punk. One of these designers is Judy Blame, who approached fashion design as an art form. With an artistic mind, Blame is among the elite few that spearheaded the punk-style movement in the 70s. Judy Blame’s designs were captivating with a brutal edge.
As I noted at the start, punk fashion is one of my favorite fashion style genres, but if I had to nail it down further, I’d be more of a goth punk style with a hint of lolita! Though saying that, it’s perhaps true of my younger days – my style has definitely changed since I hit my 40s!
Are you a fan of punk fashion? Which is your chosen sub genre? Let me know in the comments!